I heart Sampa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes, it has been a while since I last blogged, but I have been thoroughly enjoying being in São Paulo!! I have enjoyed spending time in most of the cities I have ever visited, but this one is the first that really feels as though I've come home. It is AWESOME!!!
I'm staying in an area of the city that has a real Fitroy vibe to it- sensational!! And no, I'm not biased- some of the people I have spoken to agree that São Paulo is the Melbourne of Brazil, and that Vila Madelena (where I'm staying), is like Fitzer. My Portuguese teacher Gisele was spot on! And the hostel is fabulous! I can't speak highly enough of the great staff, the awesome location, and the comfy hostel itself!
I have spent days checking out the art galleries (there are thousands of them in this city!), and the gorgeous streets. They have streets that are almost designated to a certain product- a street filled with stores that sell musical instruments, one for antique furniture, etc etc.. And some great markets! So yes, I have blown the budget here in Sampa!
The people here are awesome, and despite the bad press São Paulo has copped at times (touch wood) I have had no trouble!
Today (Sunday) I have spent the day the way that most of Sampa spends it- at Parque do Ibirapuera, this HUGE, gorgeous park- there are lakes filled with black and white swans, gorgeous garden areas, museums, galleries, bike paths, soccer pitches, basketball courts, skating areas, restaurants.... you name it! And due to the lovely warm weather, there are many scantily clad men jogging through the park!... Nice!
There are nightclubs EVERYWHERE!!! They are so sensational that the cover charge alone is almost what you would spend on a whole night out back in Oz! (I guess that stops me from over-indulging on the caipirinhas!!!)
So tomorrow I'm off to check out the centre of the city in the morning (it's a no go area on the weekend due to its dodginess), and will then be bus-ing it to Rio!!!..
Monday, February 22, 2010
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Oi Brasil!!!
Visas, vistas and Carnaval
After much stuffing around, the visa situation was FINALLY sorted, and I was on my way to Foz do Iguaçu.. (A little hint for anyone wanting to sort out their visa for Brasil in Puerto Iguazu- the consulate opens at 7am... GET THERE AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE BEFORE THE POWER GOES OUT!) The hostel I stayed in at Foz was the sister hostel of the one in Puerto- only with a superb bar and a pool!!! SWEET!!!!
I went to the Brazilian side of the falls, which were fantastic! Although I must admit, I wish I had seen the Brazilian side first- you get so close on the Argentinian side that despite the sensational view in Brazil, it isn't quite the same.. But I DID learn something I wish I had known earlier- the cute coatis that were everywhere on the Argentinian side carry RABIES!!!! And are AGGRESSIVE!!! Lucky I didn't get too close to them then!
I also went to the bird park near the falls, which was kinda scary!!! I just wanted to get a good photo of a tucan!!! But the ones in the park are so used to people that they hop around you and try to pull at any dangly bits on your backpack! And they have HUGE beaks!!!.. (I did get some great photos though!)
My inital plan was only to stay ONE extra night in Foz....... But somehow the Irish contingent at the hostel managed to peer pressure me into staying for TWO more nights- mainly due to the hostel's Carnaval celebrations which included super cheap caipirinhas!... A great night was had by all- and there are NUMEROUS photos to prove it- "OK, one more with my camera".... And I swear I WILL put up photos soon! (I just have to find the USB cord first!)..
Curitiba
So I arrived in Curitiba after a relatively sleepless 10 hour bus trip from Foz (after the bus left 2 hours late)- I WISH the Brazilian buses were as comfy as the Argentinian ones!! No such luck!!! No one serving food and drinks, and no videos- just an old bus with the most uncomfortable seats ever!!! But I managed to only have a little snooze after checking in, and walked my way around the town. The footpaths are paved with black and white patterned cobblestones, just like in Portugal- gorgeous!.. And the old buildings are amazing! It seems as though every second block there is another beautiful praça with old trees and fountains.. No wonder it is known to be the "greenest" city in Brazil!
But next up will be Sao Paulo- should be sensational!!!......
After much stuffing around, the visa situation was FINALLY sorted, and I was on my way to Foz do Iguaçu.. (A little hint for anyone wanting to sort out their visa for Brasil in Puerto Iguazu- the consulate opens at 7am... GET THERE AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE BEFORE THE POWER GOES OUT!) The hostel I stayed in at Foz was the sister hostel of the one in Puerto- only with a superb bar and a pool!!! SWEET!!!!
I went to the Brazilian side of the falls, which were fantastic! Although I must admit, I wish I had seen the Brazilian side first- you get so close on the Argentinian side that despite the sensational view in Brazil, it isn't quite the same.. But I DID learn something I wish I had known earlier- the cute coatis that were everywhere on the Argentinian side carry RABIES!!!! And are AGGRESSIVE!!! Lucky I didn't get too close to them then!
I also went to the bird park near the falls, which was kinda scary!!! I just wanted to get a good photo of a tucan!!! But the ones in the park are so used to people that they hop around you and try to pull at any dangly bits on your backpack! And they have HUGE beaks!!!.. (I did get some great photos though!)
My inital plan was only to stay ONE extra night in Foz....... But somehow the Irish contingent at the hostel managed to peer pressure me into staying for TWO more nights- mainly due to the hostel's Carnaval celebrations which included super cheap caipirinhas!... A great night was had by all- and there are NUMEROUS photos to prove it- "OK, one more with my camera".... And I swear I WILL put up photos soon! (I just have to find the USB cord first!)..
Curitiba
So I arrived in Curitiba after a relatively sleepless 10 hour bus trip from Foz (after the bus left 2 hours late)- I WISH the Brazilian buses were as comfy as the Argentinian ones!! No such luck!!! No one serving food and drinks, and no videos- just an old bus with the most uncomfortable seats ever!!! But I managed to only have a little snooze after checking in, and walked my way around the town. The footpaths are paved with black and white patterned cobblestones, just like in Portugal- gorgeous!.. And the old buildings are amazing! It seems as though every second block there is another beautiful praça with old trees and fountains.. No wonder it is known to be the "greenest" city in Brazil!
But next up will be Sao Paulo- should be sensational!!!......
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Luaggae, Che, oedema and Iguazu!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Luggage... Kinda
Right, so I caught the ferry from Colonia to Buenos Aires on Saturday morning. I spent the walk to the port in Colonia plus the hour it took to get to Buenos Aires, joking with a Swiss bloke about how my backpack (that I was forced to check in by staff at the port) wouldn't turn up when I arrived in BA... BAD MOVE!!! Turns out that it isn't quite that funny when you go to pick up your backpack and it's not there! Luckily there was a lovely Brazilian couple who were in the same boat (figuratively and literally). EVENTUALLY we were approached by a woman working for the boat company who informed us that our bags were put on the wrong boat and that we'd have to get a taxi to the other company's port to pick our stuff up... Luckily THEY would foot the taxi bill! But we weren't so lucky with the taxi driver- MANIAC!!! Made it to the port in one piece, grabbed my bag, hoofed it to the bus station, bought a ticket to Rosario for the next bus, sprinted to the bus platform and was on my way....
Che... Kinda
I arrived in the afternoon in Rosario and went for a wander around that night.. It's a gorgeous city! When I got back to the hostel I was glad I splashed out and got myself a single room for the night- talk about LUXURY! (Not really, but it GREAT to be able to stretch out in a double bed again!..) I spent the next day furiously trying to see as much of Rosario as possible. I went up the war memorial which has great views of the city.. Had a look at the market by the river.. Went to the house that Che Guevara was born in- which was CLOSED (boo!.. but I guess that's to be expected on a Sunday!).. Then hoofed it to the lovely park to go to a couple of museums within the park- CLOSED!.. So I figured that I'd hike to the Che memorial statue, which was in the middle of nowhere! I got there, and it was literally a statue of Che in an unmown field.. Oh well! With sore feet, I headed back to the hostel for a quick kip before I went on the 16 hour bus trip to Puerto Iguazu..
Puffy ankles are NOT attractive!
I KNOW it's my own fault for not putting on the TEDs that I have, but when I evetually made it to Puerto Iguazu, I had ankles the size of my calves! After a rest, they were feeling a touch better, and I popped out to the adjoining bar for cheap daquiries and caipirinhas- YUM! Met a great group of people and had a huge laugh, before a refreshing night of sleep...
Yesterday was Iguazu falls day (for the Argentinian side). It was so amazingly breathtakingly spectacular! You can get so close to some of the falls that you can feel the pressure of the water! And get drenched in the spray!.. Fabulous! You can catch a little train up the the Devil's Throat where you get close to a whole heaps of falls together, and have to shout to be heard over the noise of the falls!
The falls are surrounded by parkland, and surprisingly (because of the huge number of tourists in the park) there are heaps of animals to spot! There was a group of monkeys up in the trees throwing fruit at us!.. There were coatis EVERYWHERE! They rummaged through bins and jumped on picnic tables after food- (they are VERY cute looking animals, google em!).. Despite how cute they looked, I wouldn't have stood between one and food! There were turtles in the water, lizards running around.. AWESOME!
Today I was meant to be heading to Brazil, but my plans were thwarted! It's daily occurrence that the power goes out in Puerto Iguazu- and it's usually for a good couple of hours.. Which makes it hard for the consulate (that is only open for a couple of hours a day- coincidently the same kinda time the power goes out for..) to photocopy my stuff for the visa!.. Anyhow, there are worse places than Puerto Iguazu to be stuck for a day!.. I will be up at the crack of dawn to get this visa situation sorted out once and for all, then on my way to Foz do Iguaçu, on the Brazilian side of the border.. After that, there'll be a long bus trip (with TEDs in situ) but not 100% sure where to.... Curitiba? Sao Paulo?... I'll sort that out in the next day or so.......
Right, so I caught the ferry from Colonia to Buenos Aires on Saturday morning. I spent the walk to the port in Colonia plus the hour it took to get to Buenos Aires, joking with a Swiss bloke about how my backpack (that I was forced to check in by staff at the port) wouldn't turn up when I arrived in BA... BAD MOVE!!! Turns out that it isn't quite that funny when you go to pick up your backpack and it's not there! Luckily there was a lovely Brazilian couple who were in the same boat (figuratively and literally). EVENTUALLY we were approached by a woman working for the boat company who informed us that our bags were put on the wrong boat and that we'd have to get a taxi to the other company's port to pick our stuff up... Luckily THEY would foot the taxi bill! But we weren't so lucky with the taxi driver- MANIAC!!! Made it to the port in one piece, grabbed my bag, hoofed it to the bus station, bought a ticket to Rosario for the next bus, sprinted to the bus platform and was on my way....
Che... Kinda
I arrived in the afternoon in Rosario and went for a wander around that night.. It's a gorgeous city! When I got back to the hostel I was glad I splashed out and got myself a single room for the night- talk about LUXURY! (Not really, but it GREAT to be able to stretch out in a double bed again!..) I spent the next day furiously trying to see as much of Rosario as possible. I went up the war memorial which has great views of the city.. Had a look at the market by the river.. Went to the house that Che Guevara was born in- which was CLOSED (boo!.. but I guess that's to be expected on a Sunday!).. Then hoofed it to the lovely park to go to a couple of museums within the park- CLOSED!.. So I figured that I'd hike to the Che memorial statue, which was in the middle of nowhere! I got there, and it was literally a statue of Che in an unmown field.. Oh well! With sore feet, I headed back to the hostel for a quick kip before I went on the 16 hour bus trip to Puerto Iguazu..
Puffy ankles are NOT attractive!
I KNOW it's my own fault for not putting on the TEDs that I have, but when I evetually made it to Puerto Iguazu, I had ankles the size of my calves! After a rest, they were feeling a touch better, and I popped out to the adjoining bar for cheap daquiries and caipirinhas- YUM! Met a great group of people and had a huge laugh, before a refreshing night of sleep...
Yesterday was Iguazu falls day (for the Argentinian side). It was so amazingly breathtakingly spectacular! You can get so close to some of the falls that you can feel the pressure of the water! And get drenched in the spray!.. Fabulous! You can catch a little train up the the Devil's Throat where you get close to a whole heaps of falls together, and have to shout to be heard over the noise of the falls!
The falls are surrounded by parkland, and surprisingly (because of the huge number of tourists in the park) there are heaps of animals to spot! There was a group of monkeys up in the trees throwing fruit at us!.. There were coatis EVERYWHERE! They rummaged through bins and jumped on picnic tables after food- (they are VERY cute looking animals, google em!).. Despite how cute they looked, I wouldn't have stood between one and food! There were turtles in the water, lizards running around.. AWESOME!
Today I was meant to be heading to Brazil, but my plans were thwarted! It's daily occurrence that the power goes out in Puerto Iguazu- and it's usually for a good couple of hours.. Which makes it hard for the consulate (that is only open for a couple of hours a day- coincidently the same kinda time the power goes out for..) to photocopy my stuff for the visa!.. Anyhow, there are worse places than Puerto Iguazu to be stuck for a day!.. I will be up at the crack of dawn to get this visa situation sorted out once and for all, then on my way to Foz do Iguaçu, on the Brazilian side of the border.. After that, there'll be a long bus trip (with TEDs in situ) but not 100% sure where to.... Curitiba? Sao Paulo?... I'll sort that out in the next day or so.......
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Colonia Del Sacramento... Uruguay's Ocean Grove
Hmmmmmmm
OK, so I just realised that in the last blog, I referred in one of the subtitles to "mate", and then never said anything about it! Mate is a herbal tea-like substance that the Uruguayans go NUTS for! Every second person has a thermos of hot water, their mate gourd and bombilla and mate under their arm! The pull their cars over and sit on the grass in the shade drinking it, or outside shops- basically anywhere! I thought Argentinans were keen on the stuff, but they are 10 times more obsessed in Uruguay!
Monte-Colonia
My last night in Montevideo was spent at a different hostel, which turned out to be great! I met a couple of awesome Kiwi chicks, and some of the locals there taught us a bit of latin dancing!.. Great fun! I kinda slept in the next morning, and was ALMOST late for my bus (plus there was the fact that the screen with the departure bays on it said that mine was leaving from platform 14, when it turned out it was leaving from 16). But some kind Montevideanos helped me get the right one!
I arrived in Colonia in the early afternoon, and spent the rest of the day wandering around the old part of town, stickbeaking in shops, avoiding being run over by the people hooning around the streets in rented golf carts (yes, SERIOUSLY) and generally just taking it easy. I had an AMAZING candlelit dinner at a restaurant next to the river, where the crickets and frogs were competing to see who could be the loudest... It was all quite romantic... except for the fact that I was sitting by myself reading a book! Today, I went up the rickety old staircase to the lighthouse without tripping up- YAY! It had a great view of the town..
Things I've loved about Uruguay
Since I'm heading back to Argentina tomorrow, I've been reflecting upon some of the trivial things I have loved about Uruguay.. And here are some of them- I love that they call their McDonalds drive-through an "auto mac" (as I'm sure other South American countries do too, but it's the first time I've seen one!). What a great name! And one that I shall use back home! I love that there is a dress shop called "tit" in the upmarket shopping centre in Montevideo. I loved that one of the older women at one of the hostels I stayed in had more idea about what to do in Montevideo, and spoke better English than the bloke working at the hostel- he said to me "she have my job". I love that the graffiti in Montevideo was about Jesus and Christianity!
Actually, enough trivial stuff! I LOVE Uruguay- full stop! The country is gorgeous, the people are really friendly, and it has a laid back vibe..
Next stop, Rosario- the birthplace of Che Guevara. PS- I am now the owner of a functional camera WITH a USB cord..... Photos will be coming!...
OK, so I just realised that in the last blog, I referred in one of the subtitles to "mate", and then never said anything about it! Mate is a herbal tea-like substance that the Uruguayans go NUTS for! Every second person has a thermos of hot water, their mate gourd and bombilla and mate under their arm! The pull their cars over and sit on the grass in the shade drinking it, or outside shops- basically anywhere! I thought Argentinans were keen on the stuff, but they are 10 times more obsessed in Uruguay!
Monte-Colonia
My last night in Montevideo was spent at a different hostel, which turned out to be great! I met a couple of awesome Kiwi chicks, and some of the locals there taught us a bit of latin dancing!.. Great fun! I kinda slept in the next morning, and was ALMOST late for my bus (plus there was the fact that the screen with the departure bays on it said that mine was leaving from platform 14, when it turned out it was leaving from 16). But some kind Montevideanos helped me get the right one!
I arrived in Colonia in the early afternoon, and spent the rest of the day wandering around the old part of town, stickbeaking in shops, avoiding being run over by the people hooning around the streets in rented golf carts (yes, SERIOUSLY) and generally just taking it easy. I had an AMAZING candlelit dinner at a restaurant next to the river, where the crickets and frogs were competing to see who could be the loudest... It was all quite romantic... except for the fact that I was sitting by myself reading a book! Today, I went up the rickety old staircase to the lighthouse without tripping up- YAY! It had a great view of the town..
Things I've loved about Uruguay
Since I'm heading back to Argentina tomorrow, I've been reflecting upon some of the trivial things I have loved about Uruguay.. And here are some of them- I love that they call their McDonalds drive-through an "auto mac" (as I'm sure other South American countries do too, but it's the first time I've seen one!). What a great name! And one that I shall use back home! I love that there is a dress shop called "tit" in the upmarket shopping centre in Montevideo. I loved that one of the older women at one of the hostels I stayed in had more idea about what to do in Montevideo, and spoke better English than the bloke working at the hostel- he said to me "she have my job". I love that the graffiti in Montevideo was about Jesus and Christianity!
Actually, enough trivial stuff! I LOVE Uruguay- full stop! The country is gorgeous, the people are really friendly, and it has a laid back vibe..
Next stop, Rosario- the birthplace of Che Guevara. PS- I am now the owner of a functional camera WITH a USB cord..... Photos will be coming!...
Thursday, February 4, 2010
Montevideo madness!...
Algae, blisters and mate
OK, so I've been a touch slack with the blogging of late, but can you blame me??? I've been out enjoying the sunshine in Montevideo and taking lots of photos- until my camera died yesterday, that is! So the next thing on my agenda is to buy a new camera. (Not something I'm looking forward to, as electronics in this part of the world are pretty expensive!) But I'm getting ahead of myself.
I arrived in Uruguay having taken an overnight bus from Buenos Aires- the bus was pretty plush, with an onboard bar (no, not THAT kind of bar, non-alcoholic drinks only), and BIG reclining seats. The only thing to stop me from having slept the whole 9 hours was being shaken at 3am by an angry bus driver to hand over my passport for crossing the border. Once that was all dealt with, it was plain sailing (so to speak). The hostel I have been staying at was in Pocitos (as is the new one I'm staying in tonight). It's the area of Montevideo where the wealthy live (or have their summer houses), and it's right near the beach...
Beach??....
Speaking of beaches, I was super pumped having read that Montevideo has "pristine beaches" as per the old Lonely Planet... But I had also found a blog where a sooky American tourist was having a whinge about the water at the beach being brown and sticky.. I figured that was just a sooky Yank's point of view.... But Ol' LP let me down! Yes, indeed the water IS brown and sticky! And having walked the 8.5km of La Rambla from Pocitos to Ciudad Vieja, I can tell you that it gets worse closer to town with (what I'm sure must be) blue-green algae everywhere. Not that the locals were put off by it- they and their dogs were swimming in the algae with no issues! It has made me think that maybe we in Oz are OTT with closing beaches/rivers with algae??.. Or is it that the locals have built up a Salmonella resistance?? PS- the walk into town along La Rambla was great! But after walking around the city, deciding to walk back to the hostel along La Rambla again, was NOT the best decision I've ever made! Hence the blisters!
Monte itself
The city itself is GREAT! Kinda like a cross between Melbourne/Geelong and Coimbra in Portugal. (Although without the drug trafficking footy players... actually scratch that, there may well be drug trafficking soccer players here). The Ciudad Vieja is the old part of town (hence its name), and is full of tiny winding streets, lovely old buildings and small plazas. Microcentro (the city centre- funny that) is a bustling place with museums and theatres. Today I'm off to Museo Torres García (art gallery for Uruguayan abstract and cubist painter) (once I've bought a new camera). Yesterday I went to the old summer house of Juan Zorrilla de San Martín, whose poetry and politicism (according to an older woman who was staying in my hostel dorm and giving me the lowdown on MV) is very important in the history of Uruguay. The house was full of all sorts of amazing stuff, and a beautiful place itself!
Next up!
Next on the agenda is a couple of days in Colonia Del Sacramento.. Then a ferry ride back to Buenos Aires, followed by a bus trip to Rosario, where I'll spend a few days.
OK, so I've been a touch slack with the blogging of late, but can you blame me??? I've been out enjoying the sunshine in Montevideo and taking lots of photos- until my camera died yesterday, that is! So the next thing on my agenda is to buy a new camera. (Not something I'm looking forward to, as electronics in this part of the world are pretty expensive!) But I'm getting ahead of myself.
I arrived in Uruguay having taken an overnight bus from Buenos Aires- the bus was pretty plush, with an onboard bar (no, not THAT kind of bar, non-alcoholic drinks only), and BIG reclining seats. The only thing to stop me from having slept the whole 9 hours was being shaken at 3am by an angry bus driver to hand over my passport for crossing the border. Once that was all dealt with, it was plain sailing (so to speak). The hostel I have been staying at was in Pocitos (as is the new one I'm staying in tonight). It's the area of Montevideo where the wealthy live (or have their summer houses), and it's right near the beach...
Beach??....
Speaking of beaches, I was super pumped having read that Montevideo has "pristine beaches" as per the old Lonely Planet... But I had also found a blog where a sooky American tourist was having a whinge about the water at the beach being brown and sticky.. I figured that was just a sooky Yank's point of view.... But Ol' LP let me down! Yes, indeed the water IS brown and sticky! And having walked the 8.5km of La Rambla from Pocitos to Ciudad Vieja, I can tell you that it gets worse closer to town with (what I'm sure must be) blue-green algae everywhere. Not that the locals were put off by it- they and their dogs were swimming in the algae with no issues! It has made me think that maybe we in Oz are OTT with closing beaches/rivers with algae??.. Or is it that the locals have built up a Salmonella resistance?? PS- the walk into town along La Rambla was great! But after walking around the city, deciding to walk back to the hostel along La Rambla again, was NOT the best decision I've ever made! Hence the blisters!
Monte itself
The city itself is GREAT! Kinda like a cross between Melbourne/Geelong and Coimbra in Portugal. (Although without the drug trafficking footy players... actually scratch that, there may well be drug trafficking soccer players here). The Ciudad Vieja is the old part of town (hence its name), and is full of tiny winding streets, lovely old buildings and small plazas. Microcentro (the city centre- funny that) is a bustling place with museums and theatres. Today I'm off to Museo Torres García (art gallery for Uruguayan abstract and cubist painter) (once I've bought a new camera). Yesterday I went to the old summer house of Juan Zorrilla de San Martín, whose poetry and politicism (according to an older woman who was staying in my hostel dorm and giving me the lowdown on MV) is very important in the history of Uruguay. The house was full of all sorts of amazing stuff, and a beautiful place itself!
Next up!
Next on the agenda is a couple of days in Colonia Del Sacramento.. Then a ferry ride back to Buenos Aires, followed by a bus trip to Rosario, where I'll spend a few days.
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